Meet Trinidad - Embrace Carnival: the epitome of the Trini experience

It’s quite indescribable, the feeling you experience when you join the mass of people of all shades spilling over in the streets. In any other place, at any other time, uncontrolled masses of inebriated folk would be cause for concern, if not panic. But not here and not at this time. It is sweet, liberating, addicting, unbridled fun. It is Carnival: two days of sheer revelry dressed up in the brilliance of colourful feathers, beads, and sequins — though not much else!

But, really, Carnival is not just a two-day affair. It is a season and an attitude. The Monday and Tuesday prior to Ash Wednesday might be the days earmarked for massive Carnival street parades, but this is simply the culmination of an incredible buildup, which gets into full gear even before Christmas. From the time the year’s end approaches, Trinis get their hearts, souls and bodies into the Carnival mode. Feteing becomes paramount — more so than at any other time of year.

First come the band launchings. From as early as August, band leaders unveil their presentations for the upcoming Carnival. During these band launching fetes, would-be masqueraders have the opportunity to check out the costume designs for various sections within the band. Once Christmas has passed, the Carnival fetes — many of which supply all you can drink and eat — come fast and furious, priming patrons for the actual street parade.

These fetes are not the only source of pre-Carnival action, however. Entertainment also comes in the form of shows and competitions. Calypso tents become active from January. These provide calypso and local comedy laced with political satire.

Then there are Carnival-related competitions of all types: Panorama is a great favourite. Usually staged at the Savannah, steelbands from all over the island vie for the Steelband of the Year title, playing the latest calypsos. Panorama competitions are held over a period of about a month and attract hordes of pan enthusiasts as well as those just out for a hot Carnival lime. Some other competitions integral to making the Carnival season complete are Calypso Monarch, Soca Monarch, Chutney Soca Monarch, and Kiddies Carnival. Panyard limes are also a must during the Carnival season; it’s not unusual for groups of friends to hire maxi-taxis (mini buses) and go panyard hopping.

The climax of pre-Carnival celebrations is J’Ouvert. Mud and grease are the costumes. Bottle and spoon make the music. Darkness sets the scene. Though it might sound like a somewhat shady scenario, it’s an experience well worth the madness. From the official start at 4am on Carnival Monday, bands of blue, red, black, and mud devils invade the streets, prancing to the sounds of mobile steelbands or any other type of rhythm section.

There are competitions for J’Ouvert, too, where all sorts of parodies go on parade. J’Ouvert participation for first-timers may be a little wearisome, but is wonderful preparation for the hours ahead. The adrenaline that began developing from the moment of your first Carnival fete simply escalates in the wee hours of J’ouvert morning and, will, in true Trini style, carry you through till Last Lap on Carnival Tuesday night.

Carnival Tips

• Make Carnival-related bookings months in advance. Airlines, accommodation, car rentals and carnival bands tend to get solidly booked even before January. So make reservations early!
• Playing mas’/J’Ouvert is best enjoyed with a group of friends (big lime). Though you’re guaranteed to have a blast no matter what, you’ll have twice as much fun moving in a crowd — especially a group that includes locals who can advise on the best bands to play with, etc.
• On Carnival days, carry only essentials: car keys, money, sunblock. No jewellery.
• Park sensibly, keeping in mind that, on Carnival Monday and Tuesday, the streets become the masqueraders’. Depending on where you’re planning to meet your band or group, there may be designated parking areas.

Carnival Clues

• "What band yuh playin’ in?" is the question asked when someone wants to know which set of masqueraders you’ve registered with for Carnival Monday and Tuesday.
• The Mas Camp of the "band yuh playin’ in" is where you’ll need to make payment for and collect your Carnival costume.
• "Jump up" and "chip" are terms used to describe on-the-road dancing, with the latter being the more sedate version.
• "Last Lap" is a Carnival warm-down of sorts that takes you to midnight on Carnival Tuesday.

Carnival Contacts and Costume viewing and Playing "mas" contact:

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